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How to Shave Your Underarms Without Irritation

Race morning, I pulled on my lucky sleeveless tank, shaved my underarms in a rush at 5:30 a.m. and swiped on deodorant two minutes later. By mile one my arms were swinging, the tank was rubbing and both armpits were stinging like I'd rolled them in hot sauce. I finished the race. I also finished with a whole new respect for timing.

So let's get you to the start line comfortable. Here's how to shave underarms without irritation: soften the hair in a warm shower, check which way it grows (it changes direction across the pit), lift your arm to pull the skin flat, use a lubricant and a sharp razor, and shave with the grain before you try any other direction. Then rinse, pat dry and give your skin time to settle before deodorant goes on. Shaving at night handles that last part for you.

Here's What You Need to Know
  • Underarm hair grows in two or three directions. Look before you shave so you know which way each patch runs.
  • Shave at the end of a warm shower with a lubricant, a sharp blade and short, light strokes. Go with the grain first.
  • Shave at night so your skin has hours to settle before deodorant goes on.
  • Deodorant stings on fresh skin because shaving leaves it raw. Fable's natural deodorant contains baking soda, which some skin is sensitive to, so give it extra time.

Map your underarm hair before you shave

This is the step almost everyone skips, and it's the one that matters most. Leg hair mostly grows one way. Underarm hair doesn't. In most armpits, the hair in the lower half grows down toward your ribs, the hair in the upper half grows up toward your arm, and there's often a sideways swirl in the middle. Some people have three zones, some have two. Yours is yours.

Here's the 30-second check:

  1. Let a few days of growth come in so you can see it.
  2. Stand in front of a mirror and raise one arm over your head.
  3. Run a fingertip slowly across each section. Smooth means you're moving with the grain. Prickly means against it.
  4. Note it once, and you're set. The pattern stays pretty much the same from month to month.

Once you know your map, you stop dragging the blade the wrong way over half your armpit, which is a big reason armpit shaving irritation happens in the first place.

How to shave underarms, step by step

I coach how to shave underarms like a workout: warm-up, main set, cool-down. Skip the warm-up and something will complain.

  1. Warm up in the shower. Shave near the end, after 3 to 5 minutes of warm water. Softer hair cuts with less tug.
  2. Wash first. Clean off sweat and leftover deodorant so the blade glides instead of catching on residue.
  3. Lift and stretch. Raise your arm high and put that hand behind your head. That pulls the skin flatter, which matters in a spot that's all curves and hollows.
  4. Lubricate. Use a shave oil, gel or cream. Never a dry blade and never plain soap that dries out mid-shave. If you can't decide which, I compare them in shave oil vs shaving cream.
  5. Check the blade. If it tugs, it's done. A dull blade needs more pressure, and pressure is what causes burn.
  6. Shave with the grain, zone by zone. Follow your map. Short strokes, about an inch or two long, with almost no pressure. Let the razor do the work.
  7. Rinse the blade often. Underarm hair is coarse and clogs fast. Rinse after every couple of strokes.
  8. Go across if you need it closer. Reapply lubricant, then shave sideways against the direction of growth. Only go fully against the grain if your skin handles it well.
  9. Cool down. Rinse with cool or lukewarm water, then pat dry. Don't rub with the towel.
  10. Leave it alone. No deodorant, no fragrance and no scrub on that skin yet.

If your legs are next on the list, the technique is a little different. My friend The Huntress covers it in how to shave your legs.

When to shave: timing is the whole trick

Most underarm stinging isn't about the razor at all. It's about what goes on right after. A fresh shave takes off a thin layer of skin, and skin needs a few hours to calm down. Here's how I plan around it.

Your situation When to shave When deodorant goes on
Normal week Night shower Next morning
Race, game or big event in the morning The night before Morning of, before you get dressed
Evening workout Night shower after the workout Next morning
Forgot and have to shave in the morning First thing, before coffee Last step before you leave
Skin already red or bumpy Skip a day Only once skin feels calm

One more timing note: don't shave right before a hard workout. Fresh skin plus sweat plus a tank strap rubbing for an hour is exactly how I earned my race-day lesson.

Why deodorant stings on a fresh shave

Shaving does two things to underarm skin. It scrapes off some of the outer layer, and it can leave tiny nicks you can't see. Then deodorant shows up with fragrance, sometimes alcohol, and in many natural formulas, baking soda. On settled skin, no problem. On raw skin, it can sting for a few minutes, or itch and redden through the day.

What helps:

  • Shave at night so there's a long gap before deodorant.
  • If you shave in the morning, put deodorant on as late as you can.
  • Apply it lightly. Two or three swipes is plenty; pressing hard on fresh skin doesn't help.
  • If it stings every single time no matter the gap, your shaving technique or your deodorant formula needs a look.

Baking soda and sensitive underarms

Straight talk from the locker room: baking soda is in a lot of natural deodorants, including mine. The Gym Bunny Natural Deodorant is made with beeswax, shea butter, coconut oil, arrowroot powder and baking soda, and it's aluminum-, phthalate- and talc-free. Some skin is sensitive to baking soda, and freshly shaved skin is more likely to notice it.

If you're trying it for the first time:

  • Patch test on a small area of unshaved skin, like the inside of your elbow, and wait a day.
  • Don't introduce it the same morning you shave. Start on a non-shave day.
  • If you get redness, itching or a rash where you apply it, stop using it. Baking soda just isn't for every armpit, and that's fine.

Armpit shaving irritation: bumps, burn and when to get help

Even with good technique, the occasional red patch happens. Here's general care that keeps it from turning into a week-long thing:

  • Skip shaving that area until it's calm again.
  • Keep it clean and dry, and wear loose or breathable tops when you can.
  • Don't pick or squeeze bumps.
  • Once the skin has settled, gentle exfoliation a couple of times a week can help keep hair from getting trapped. More on that in ingrown hairs after shaving.

See a dermatologist if bumps are painful, keep coming back, fill with pus, leave dark marks, or don't clear up after a couple of weeks of skipping the razor.

My underarm shaving kit

I keep it short. Pre-race, post-race and every Tuesday, this is what's on my shelf.

  • Gym Bunny Shave Oil Serum ($27, 2 oz). Coconut, sweet almond, jojoba and argan oils, and you can use it before shaving, after, or both. Before, it gives the blade glide. After, a drop or two on dry skin feels nice. It smells like my Flirty & Fit blend: pineapple, orange, coconut and bergamot.
  • Gym Bunny Body Wash ($20, 8 oz). Sulfate-free, with jojoba beads and pumice for a gentle polish. Use it on non-shave days to keep things smooth, not on top of a fresh shave.
  • Gym Bunny Natural Deodorant ($13, 2.65 oz). For the morning after, not the minute after. Remember the baking soda note above.
  • Gym Bunny Body Frosting ($25, 4 oz). A whipped moisturizer with shea butter, cocoa butter, aloe and chamomile extract for the rest of you after the shower.

FAQ

Should you shave your armpits up or down?

Both, usually, because underarm hair grows in more than one direction. Shave with the grain of each patch first, then go across it if you want it closer. Shaving straight against the grain gives the closest result but is also the most likely to irritate.

How long should you wait to put deodorant on after shaving?

As long as you can, and overnight is ideal. Shave at night and apply deodorant in the morning. If you have to shave in the morning, shave first thing and make deodorant the very last step before you leave.

Why does deodorant sting after shaving?

A razor scrapes away a thin layer of skin and can leave tiny nicks you can't see. Fragrance, alcohol or baking soda then land on skin with less protection, so it stings. Giving your skin a few hours to settle usually fixes it.

Is it better to shave your armpits wet or dry?

Wet. Shave near the end of a warm shower so the hair has had a few minutes to soften, and always use a lubricant like shave oil, gel or cream. Dry shaving drags the blade across bare skin and is a quick route to razor burn.

How often should you shave your underarms?

As often as your skin stays calm with. Plenty of people shave every two to three days, and daily is fine if you don't get bumps or redness. If you do, add a rest day between shaves.

Can you use natural deodorant on freshly shaved armpits?

You can, but give it time. Many natural deodorants, including Fable Beauty's, contain baking soda, which some skin is sensitive to. Wait overnight after shaving and patch test first if you've never used it.

Cool-down

The next race, I shaved the night before, slept, and swiped on deodorant at 6 a.m. while the coffee brewed. Same tank. Same mile one. Nothing but sweat, a stitch in my side and a very good playlist. Knowing how to shave underarms is half of it. The other half is the wait. Map it, glide it, wait it out.

Every beauty has a story.

— The Gym Bunny

About the author: The Gym Bunny

First one at the squat rack and last one out of the locker room, with a sweat-proof tip for every rep. Find her scent: The Gym Bunny collection (pineapple, orange, coconut and bergamot).

Fable Beauty's characters are written by the Fable Beauty team, handmade in Nashville, TN.

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